Rovaniemi in December & for Christmas: Honest Guide to the Magic and Mayhem

I have visited Rovaniemi in December several times over the years. First, on a short Christmas trip a couple of times years ago and then again last year for almost a month to finally experience a real Arctic winter and its magic.

Surprisingly, each trip showed me Rovaniemi from a new angle, but every time it was very busy and EXPENSIVE (probably more expensive than Tromso at this time). Of course, that’s expected. Everyone wants to feel the real Christmas magic here and during this time of the year, it’s everywhere.

So I wanted to share my honest impressions and experience of spending December in Rovaniemi, especially those days around Christmas and New Year, when it feels both magical and overwhelming.

So if you are planning a trip this winter, here’s what December in Rovaniemi is like – the good, the bad, and everything in between. If you have any other questions I didn’t cover, just ask!

Pros & Cons of Visiting Rovaniemi in December

Like any place in peak season, Rovaniemi in December has its magic and its headaches. Here are the main pros and cons from my own experience.

Pros:

• You can actually feel the Christmas spirit here and not the commercial one, but the kind that makes you forget about the outside world for a while. Snow, lights, Santa, reindeer, northern lights… it really feels like another reality.
• There is real winter. Yes, snow levels vary each year because of climate change (last year it barely covered the ground, but it was there!) Still, it’s always around in December (sometimes more, sometimes less) but always enough to bring that joyful winter feeling.
• If snow matters to you, Rovaniemi won’t disappoint – you’ll get your white December.
• It’s easy to find peace and quiet if you plan well. Rovaniemi isn’t just Santa Claus Village. It’s also endless forests, frozen rivers, and small cabins where you can feel like the world belongs only to you.
• Northern Lights tours run daily in December, so your chances of seeing them are good when the weather cooperates.
• Everything feels so cozy… cafes, saunas, local life… It’s really a great place where to be.

Cons:

• It’s crowded and chaotic (very). Santa Claus Village is especially overwhelming with its endless lines, noise, and selfie sticks everywhere. Many people leave disappointed because they visit right at Christmas, when it’s the most packed.
• It’s extremely expensive. December is the most expensive month of the year here. Prices for hotels, tours, and even basic activities jump several times higher than usual. Traveling Finnish Lapland on a budget in the second half of December is almost impossible (except for groceries).
• Daylight is very short (just a few hours) and most days are grey, so if constant darkness affects you, this will be a bad time to visit.
• Availability can be a problem. Hotels, cabins, and tours get booked months in advance, so spontaneous trips rarely work.
• Getting around is tricky. Taxis are expensive and public transport is limited outside the city center. Renting a car and driving in Rovaniemi in winter can be a challange for many people. So joining tours is the best alternative (which is better for higher budgets).

One Tip From Me: If you want to visit Rovaniemi in December while being on a low budget, there are a few affordable places to stay that are cheaper than most accommodation options.

December Weather & Daylight

December in Rovaniemi means real winter – cold, dark, and snowy (even though, again, level of snow varies depending on the year). Temperatures stay between –5°C and –15°C, sometimes dropping even lower at night.

Snow is almost always there by mid-December, though the first week can still look uncertain. At least in my experience it was this way. It always arrives before Christmas, turning the town into that classic Arctic postcard. (Maybe it will change in the future, but so far in recent years, snow has accompanied Christmas every time.)

I think the biggest shock that can happen is the lack of daylight (although if you lived all your life in a warm climate, then the cold too!) December is dark (on some days very dark), but not completely (there is no true polar night here, the sun rises for a couple of hours, very low above the horizon). Yet, on many days it feels heavy if the sky is cloudy (which often is during December).

Around the winter solstice (21 December), daylight lasts just over two hours, from around 11 am to 1:30 pm.

On cloudy days, you barely notice the sun at all, it’s just a soft bluish glow. But when the sky clears, the light is beautiful… pink, orange, and gold or purpule depending on atmospheric conditions.

It can feel strange at first, but you get used to it and your day starts to shift around the darkness. Cafes open late, activities start late… dark nights open up a door to many unique Lapland experiences (chasing Northern Lights is just one of them).

Can You See Northern Lights in December?

Yes, you can but (!) December isn’t the easiest month for it. Long nights are perfect in theory, yet in reality the weather in Rovaniemi in December gets in the way. Clouds cover the sky most of the time and snowfalls are frequent, so your chances depend entirely on luck and patience.

During my stay last year, I saw the aurora only three times around the city during almost the whole month of December (I mean a visible aurora, not the faint one you can only capture with the phone.) But for the most part, I needed to go outside the city center to catch it there. And that happened mainly thanks to the app.

If you are coming mainly for the aurora, your best bet is to book a Northern Lights tour with a visibility guarantee. These tours always drive far beyond Rovaniemi (while following live forecasts), often deep into northern Finland and sometimes even toward Norway or Sweden. They last many hours (usually throughout the night) and are really intense, but they give you the best possible chance to actually see the Northern Lights.

3 Best Northern Lights Tours in Rovaniemi with Guaranteed Sightings:

Things to Know About Rovaniemi Christmas Market

The thing is that Rovaniemi doesn’t have a traditional European Christmas market with rows of wooden huts in the city centre. The small booths that appear on Lordi’s Square in early and mid-December are limited and not a full event. I kind of knew that, but hoped at least for a bit of a Christmasy feel in the city, yet it turned out to be a big disappointment. There is really none.

But the truth is, you don’t really come to Rovaniemi during Christmas for Christmas markets. The main idea is about meeting Santa, seeing real snowy forests, short daylight, doing husky and snowmobile activities, visiting reindeer farms, and just getting the whole feeling of celebrating Christmas right on the Arctic Circle. It’s a completely different experience from any European city with a market.

If you want a Christmas-market atmosphere during your visit, the best place is Santa Claus Village (open every day in December). It isn’t a ‘market’ in the classical sense, but it has wooden stalls, some nice decorations, glögi stands, seasonal treats, and lots of small craft shops that together feel like a Lapland-style market.

But the whole place is incredibly crowded, so crowded that many people will hate it (we did and everyone I know who went during this time also didn’t enjoy it).

By the way, if you want to actually feel the magic of meeting Santa Claus, it’s better to plan it with Joulukka (if budget allows, of course, because they are quite expensive). Their experience takes place deep in the forest, away from the crowds, not in Santa Claus Village, which is extremely packed in December. One of my clients did it with her kids, and she later told me it was the best experience of their entire Christmas trip to Rovaniemi.

What to Do in December in Rovaniemi

There’s actually so much to do in Rovaniemi in winter that one trip isn’t enough. But here I am sharing the activities you really shouldn’t miss in December, the ones that feel the most special this month and, in some cases, only happen during it.

1. See Northern Lights on a Tour
Even though December isn’t the best month for the aurora, it’s still worth trying to see it (of course, especially if visiting for the first time!) As I mentioned above, choose a tour that guarantees sightings (even if they end up driving you to Sweden). But if such a tour is too much effort, pick one that at least gets canceled when the aurora forecast isn’t good or get an Aurora pass for 3–5 nights, where you have more chances to see the lights.

2. Visit Arktikum
This is simply an amazing museum any time of year, but in winter it’s even better because you can warm up between cold outdoor attractions. It’s about the local nature, Sami culture and traditions, and it helps you understand Lapland much deeper. Exhibits are beautifully designed and easy to enjoy even if you are tired or frozen. It’s just a perfect indoor break.

3. Explore SantaPark – the Home Cavern of Santa Claus
It’s a lovely park, especially if you travel with kids or just love Christmas (although we visited without children and enjoyed it too). Everything happens inside a cave, which is warm and full of light with lots of music and decorations. You can meet elves, walk through the Ice Gallery, make crafts, decorate gingerbread cookies, ride the Magic Train, ans a few more Christmasy things.

Note, SantaPark is open only from November 1 until January 10, so it’s a true once-a-year experience. More details here.

4. Stop by Santa Claus Village
Even though it’s one of the craziest and most crowded places in the whole region, you should still see it once. Cross the Arctic Circle, send a postcard from Santa’s Post Office, and feel that festive chaos. It’s part of what makes Rovaniemi famous, just don’t expect silence or space to yourself.

5. Go Snowshoeing to the Arctic Nature
If there is enough snow, snowshoeing is absolutely worth trying, especially if you’ve never done it before. It’s quiet and pretty easy, and then you get a completely different way to experience Lapland’s nature. If budget allows, try this walk with a guide.

6. Try a Husky or Reindeer Safari
Two of the most popular activities in Lapland. Expensive and not to everyone’s liking, but worth doing at least once.

7. Warm Up in a Sauna
Freezing weather makes this a daily ritual. A hot sauna during (or after) a cold day outdoors is the most Finnish thing you can do. If you want to maximize your time while experiencing this unique activity, choose the sauna & ice swimming tour with dinner and aurora.

8. Feed Reindeer on One of the Local Farms
It’s a simple thing, but surprisingly special (and it is different from a reindeer sleigh). Many small reindeer farms around Rovaniemi let you visit, hand-feed them lichen, and learn about their lives from the herders. December is perfect for it as reindeer are in their thick winter coats and air smells like pine with snow. Some farms offer an immersive experience with a professional photo shoot like this Arctic Photo Experience.

9. Walk Along the Frozen River
By mid-December the Kemijoki River freezes, creating beautiful shapes and reflections. But even before it’s fully frozen, it’s fascinating to walk along the shore and watch the water starting to turn into ice… you can literally see ripples and small waves freezing in motion, such a sight! By the end of the month and later in winter, the scene changes completely as the river becomes fully frozen.

10. Visit Korouoma Canyon & Frozen Waterfalls
If you want to see something very impressive, go for a day trip to Korouoma Canyon. In December the cliffs and waterfalls start turning into massive frozen walls of blue ice, which looks unreal. Even if it’s not cold enough for them to freeze completely, the half-frozen waterfalls with running water still look so beautiful. We went there on our own, but there is also an option to go on a guided tour that includes a BBQ.

11. Walk the Arctic Circle Trail in Vaattunki Wilderness
Closer to Rovaniemi, this trail is perfect for a December trip for a calmer day in nature away from many people. It is about walking in a protected natural area, part of the Arctic Circle Hiking Area, crossing the Arctic Circle. You can do it on your own or on an Arctic Circle hiking tour where you also stop by a fireplace to warm up and grill sausages.

New Year’s Eve & Fireworks in Rovaniemi

If you are in Rovaniemi at the end of December, you’ll see that New Year’s Eve is celebrated, but not on a huge city scale. There is usually one official fireworks show at midnight, organised by the city. It’s normally visible from the riverbank area near the city centre (spots like Valdemari Beach or the Pohjanhovi riverside are typical viewing places). These locations change slightly year to year, but the fireworks are always easy to see from the central riverside.

Don’t expect a long show. The one in Rovaniemi is short, simple, and more about the setting than the size. The atmosphere comes from a dark sky that makes the fireworks look brighter.

Most people gather outside for the countdown, and then go straight back indoors because of the cold. If you want something more structured, some hotels and local tour companies host their own New Year events, but you don’t need to join one to see the fireworks.

How Expensive Is Rovaniemi in December

Quite expensive and I don’t mean it as an exaggeration. Let’s talk numbers. Hotels that cost around €100-150 in November suddenly jump to €300–350 (or more) once December starts.

And the closer it gets to Christmas, the higher they go. Some cabins and hotels list for over €600 a night during the holidays (like Postmaster Hotel where we stayed on one of our trips in October and paid €150 per night, but in December it already costs more than €800). Guesthouses and small apartments for €150–200 still exist, but they are gone long before December even begins.

Tours aren’t cheap either (and their price also goes up in December, so you want to book them in advance too). A short reindeer ride with a farm visit starts from €90 per person and a Northern Lights tour costs start from €150. Anything private or longer easily goes past €200.

🧭TIP: If you are planning your trip in advance, book the tours early too (if booking on GetYourGuide, Viator, or similar platforms). In December, prices are always at their highest. From what I’ve seen, September and October usually have the lowest rates (you can still book then for December), but by winter they increase by 10-15%.

Even eating out adds up fast. Lunch in a cafe (or menu of the day) costs around €15–20, and dinner for two in a mid-range restaurant for about €70-80. Groceries stay at regular Finnish prices, but taxis and transfers can ruin your Rovaniemi December budget faster than you expect.

What to Pack for December in Rovaniemi

When it comes to what to pack for Rovaniemi and Lapland in December (or really any time in winter), I always say that your packing list shouldn’t be about style but about survival and comfort. Since temperatures are always below zero, it feels like being inside the freezer on dry days. With wind and/or humidity, it feels much colder than that.

Your main rule is layers. Second rule – good footwear. Third – the right type of mittens, hats, and face protection.

So, start with a thermal base layer, both top and bottom. Add a warm fleece or wool sweater, then a proper down or insulated winter jacket on top. For legs, bring thermal leggings + lined pants or ski trousers (do not take jeans, even with the fleece lining).

Footwear matters more than anything. Bring waterproof, insulated boots with thick soles and wear wool socks (bring several pairs, they save your life). Forget thin gloves, you’ll need mittens or layered gloves, plus a warm hat and scarf that fully cover your ears and neck.

If you are planning long tours (like husky rides, snowmobiles, or aurora trips), pack hand warmers (I recently purchased these disposable ones and they became a lifesaver), power banks (batteries die fast in cold), and lip balm or face cream for wind protection.

You don’t need to bring everything from home, though. Some tour companies provide thermal suits and boots, and you can rent gear in Rovaniemi if needed. But having a solid base layer and warm shoes of your own makes the biggest difference.

Is Everything Open Around Christmas & New Year?

Not everything but most of it is. Main attractions and winter activities in Rovaniemi continue to run through the holidays.

Santa Claus Village is open every day of the year and tours like husky rides, reindeer safaris, and Northern Lights excursions don’t stop either. Many companies even add special departures for the festive week. However, activities inside the park (like reindeer rides) finish earlier on 24 December, around 3 PM.

On Christmas Eve, some restaurants and small cafes in the city close early or take a short break for the holiday. A few reopen on the 25th, but not all. (Your safest bet for finding food during Christmas in the city is Asian restaurants, most of them stay open). The same happens on New Year’s Eve, when some places close early for private celebrations.

Supermarkets like Prisma and K-Market shut by late afternoon on Dec 24 and reopen only on the 26th. Christmas Day itself is quiet since locals tend to stay at home.

Is Rovaniemi Crowded in December?

Yes, very. December is when everyone wants to be here. The first week or so of the month is still more or less calm, but starting from the second week of December so many people start arriving, especially big tour groups. Many people are flying in from all over the world to see “the real Christmas”.

A few days before Christmas, Rovaniemi becomes incredibly packed, particularly Santa Claus Village where it becomes impossible to move because crowds are so huge. Lines everywhere are insane and you can easily spend more time waiting for an attraction than enjoying it. Even on weekdays, it’s hard to find a quiet moment there. Airport lines are also long, restaurants and tours are full.

If you can’t stand crowds but still want to visit Lapland for a week or so in winter, avoid staying in Santa Claus Village (maybe come to visit just for half a day to see what it’s like but don’t expect peace and quiet) or Rovaniemi center. Instead, plan your route so you stay on the outskirts in private cabins or forest hotels, and choose tours with small groups only.

Local Food to Try During This Month

You’ll find most traditional Finnish dishes all over the country, but in Rovaniemi (with snow outside and everything glowing in December) they taste somewhat different.

The main thing to try is salmon soup (lohikeitto) – creamy, simple, and everywhere. Then there is reindeer, served grilled, as stew, or with mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam. Rovaniemi is one of the few places where eating it actually feels natural since it’s part of local Lapland life.

For dessert, there’s leipäjuusto (the squeaky Finnish cheese) with cloudberry jam and of curse December drink is glögi, Finnish mulled wine with almonds and raisins. I also like:

• Mushroom or game soups, made with chanterelles or moose meat.
• Karjalanpiirakka – Karelian pies filled with rice porridge, often served warm with egg butter. I like to buy them in Prisma to warm up at home.
• Joulutorttu – Christmas pastries shaped like stars, filled with prune jam. You see them in every cafe (and grocery store) in December.
• Piparkakut – Finnish gingerbread cookies (crisp and spiced) that go well with glögi.
• Hot berry juice – served on tours and outdoor activities, made from lingonberries or blackcurrants. Possible to find it in grocery stores.

More Inspiration From Finland

• Wilderness Hotel Inari – worth the hype or overpriced?
• Helsinki to Jyväskylä by Car – unique road trip for December or other time in winter